A skilful reimagining of the Vingt-8 series*, Voutilainen reinterprets his work to invert the movement, bringing to the fore something which is usually hidden. The dial places the escapement and balance wheel at the forefront, while the reverse of the watch reveals further complication. Only 10 of these were created in platinum, making this piece as elusive as it is attractive.

Building on his time-only Vingt-8, this “inverse” series flips the movement, inverting the calibre to show the escapement and large balance wheel on front. In total, 28 watches were produced in series, with 10 in platinum, 10 in tantalum and 8 in titanium.

The dial features a dark blue chapter ring, with a cartouche bearing Voutilainen's signature that is a slightly lighter tone than the surrounding dark grey dial. The Breguet-style hour and minute hands also feature blued-steel rings, in the most classical interpretation of the style. On the left corner, the watchmaker's oversized balance wheel is revealed, with two blued escape wheels placed discretely beneath. The reverse of the watch also features openworked bridges for the seconds and power reserve indications, with their indicator rings bearing the same dark blue shade against a grey background.

Additional gearing allows for the hands of the 28PI to travel clockwise around the dial, and for hand-setting to occur through the winding crown. The open dial displays design cues and finishing which are typical of Kari’s watches, but with an unconventional arrangement of the indications. The subtly complicated movement on the reverse side creates an overall sense of balance with the dial side, combining a unique balance-spring system, with a typical Phillips overcoil and a Grossmann interior curve, and the signature direct impulse escapement with two large escapement wheels.

The watch is also finished to an incredibly high standard, as one of the hallmarks of Voutilainen as a manufacture is their superlative hand-finishing, with expert anglage and a mixture of polished, brushed and frosted surfaces. 

Closer look

Condition

This Voutilainen 28Pl is in exceptional condition throughout. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear with light superficial marks visible under magnification, and likely only worn on a handful of occasions. The dial hands and movement are free from any signs of imperfection.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.